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It's important to know and understand the ingredients of products that you put on your skin.  The more you know, the easier selecting ne...

Skincare Ingredients: Which are the best?

It's important to know and understand the ingredients of products that you put on your skin.  The more you know, the easier selecting new products will become!


Which are the Best Skincare Ingredients?

Do you know what's in your moisturizer?

It is kind of like food ingredients.  When shopping for food, for the most part you know which ingredients are good for you, which are bad, and which ones stay neutral in your mind.

For instance, you prefer sugar over high fructose corn syrup, and you want to drink Pepsi.  You are met with two options:  Pepsi or Pepsi made with Real Sugar.  Knowing which ingredients you prefer makes this decision a no brainer - you go with the Pepsi made with Real Sugar.

The same goes for skincare.  Say you are looking to buy moisturizer at Target, and you are trying to choose between CeraVe Moisturizing Cream and Aquaphor Healing Ointment Advanced Therapy.  They are the same price - but what do you choose?  Let's take a look at the ingredients list for each:

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream
Purified Water, Glycerin, Ceteareth-20 and Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceramide 3, Ceramide 6-II, Ceramide 1, Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesterol, Petrolatum, Dimethicone, Potassium Phosphate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Phytosphingosine, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum

Aquaphor Healing Ointment Advanced Therapy
Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, Ceresin, Lanolin Alcohol, Panthenol, Glycerin, Bisabolol

CeraVe Moisturizing Cream or Aquaphor Healing Ointment Advanced Therapy?

Which one would you choose?  For me, I would opt for the CeraVe Moisturizing Cream, because it satisfies more "goodies" in my mental ingredients list as opposed to the Aquaphor which satisfies none.  While both options have great reviews, CeraVe contains lots of Ceramides and Hyaluronic Acid which can be great for skin. Therefore, even though they are at the same price point; I derive more value from my purchase of  CeraVe Moisturizing Cream.


ROCK STAR INGREDIENTS


When I shop for skincare products, I mostly look for my personal favorite ingredients ("goodies") listed below, because I know my skin responds well to them.  This list will be updated periodically:

  • Allantoin - Conditions and soothes the skin.  
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract - aka Green Tea Extract.  An antioxidant that calms the skin with it's anti-irritant properties.  Said to improve the overall appearance of sun-damaged skin.
  • Ceramides - Fatty lipids that improves water retention, replenishes and restores the skin.  
  • Dimethyl MEA (DMAE) - A (sometimes controversial) skin restoring agent mostly found in Perricone MD skin care products.  This anti-inflammatory and antioxidant ingredient increases firmness of the skin under the eyes, cheekbone and jaw areas.  It is also said to increase lip fullness and slightly reduce the appearance of wrinkles. 
  • Ginseng Root Extract - aka Panax Ginseng.  A root extract that causes a soothing and softening effect on the skin.
  • Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Root Extract - aka Licorice Root Extract - Plant extract that brightens and soothes the skin.  Improves uneven skin tone.  
  • Lactic Acid - An AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) extracted from milk.  Exfoliates by gently breaking down the material that holds dead skin cells together allowing them to shed naturally.
  • L-Ascorbic Acid - aka Vitamin C aka Ascorbic Acid.  A highly beneficial antioxidant that improves skin appearance and signs of aging.  This type of Vitamin C is water soluble but becomes unstable when added to water.  Vitamin E (alpha tocopherol) and Ferulic Acid are often combined with this ingredient in order to stabilize and improve its shelf life.  L-Ascorbic Acid also sensitive to light so in order to increase the shelf life further, products containing this ingredient should be stored in a cool, dry place such as in the refrigerator.  There are anhydrous solutions (no water) containing this ingredient where it is suspended in a silicone, which also increases the shelf life.  
  • Shea Butter - An emollient (skin softener) rich in antioxidants that is very effective in smoothing dry skin.
  • Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate - aka MAP Vitamin C.  A derivative of L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) with similar benefits but more stable.  However, it is also less potent than L-Ascorbic Acid.  It is a good alternative to those who find L-Ascorbic Acid to be irritating. 
  • Mandelic Acid - A mild AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that exfoliates the skin and considered to be an effective alternative to Glycolic and Lactic Acids.  
  • Niacinamide - aka Vitamin B3.  Provides a wide range of benefits including the increase of moisture retention and elasticity, brightening, excess sebum control, and improved appearance of enlarged pores.
  • Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract - A powerful antioxidant containing fatty acids with skin soothing benefits.  
  • Retinyl Palmitate - aka Vitamin A.  A fatty acid and potent antioxidant that improves signs of aging, as well as protect skin from UV light exposure (not a substitute for sunblock). 
  • Salicylic Acid - A BHA (beta hydroxy acid) that exfoliates dead skin while also reducing acne, breakouts, whiteheads, and blackheads.  In addition to this, it also improves uneven skin tone and texture.  
  • Snail Secretion Filtrate - This nutrient-rich mucin is best known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.  Also said to be effective in healing blemishes. 
  •  Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate - aka SAP Vitamin C.  A derivative of L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) said to be more stable than L-Ascorbic Acid and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. Provides similar benefits as L-Ascorbic Acid but not as powerful.  It is a good alternative to those who find L-Ascorbic Acid to be irritating. 
  • Sodium Hyaluronate - aka Hyaluronic Acid.  A very effective humectant that boosts the skin's moisture content, prevents dehydration, and preserves skin moisture.  
  • Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - aka Vitamin C Ester.  A stable form of Vitamin C that is fat soluble so it is believed to aid in skin penetration.  

While these ingredients may work for me, they may not work for you.  It is important to do your research and ALWAYS patch test new products.  For more ingredient lookup resources please click here.


PRODUCT CLASSIFICATION


Once you are familiar with skincare ingredients and their functions, you will begin to understand a products true purpose by just looking at the ingredients list alone.  In the above example, I mentioned Aquaphor Healing Ointment Advanced Therapy.  Did you notice something about it's ingredients list?  The very first ingredient is Petrolatum aka Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline).  This ingredient is more efficiently used as an Occlusive agent, and not a moisturizer.  An occlusive agent forms a protective barrier over the skin to prevent water loss.  It is great to use as a final step in your skincare routine, after moisturizing, in order to "lock in" the layers of products you have just applied (this maximizes the effectiveness of your other products!).

This is actually quite common.  Marketers strategically placed Aquaphor Healing Ointment Advanced Therapy with the other moisturizers because consumers are much more aware of moisturizers than occlusives, and thus increasing their sales.

How would you classify this product?

Here is another example:  I was recently gifted Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate which is classified as a Face Serum at both Sephora and Ulta.  The ideal application for a serum is before the moisturizer step in your routine.  However, if you look at the ingredients list for this "serum" you will see it contains a lot of dimethicone - a type of silicone that provides a smoothing and mattifying effect on the skin.  While this ingredient is present in many types of skincare products; high amounts of dimethicone are usually most prevalent in primers.  One could conclude that Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate may be very effective as a primer, and there are many reviews for this product that support this theory.


FINAL THOUGHTS


I implore each and every one of you to look up ALL of the ingredients for your skincare products.  When I first did this, I learned that my $32 moisturizer did not have anything beneficial for my skin - it contained nothing bad, but also didn't have anything that would cause my skin to improve.  The only difference between it and any ol' drugstore moisturizer (other than being a fancy brand) was that it contained caffeine; which really does nothing for your skin.  I then switched to a $15 moisturizer which contains a lot of the "goodies" listed above.  My skin improved dramatically and I was also able to save money.  How awesome is that?

Check out my Ingredient Lookup Resources page for more information and links to ingredient dictionaries!


All three Ulta's near me were out, but I finally managed to snag one! Introducing Ulta's 2017 Birthday Gift:  The NYX Birthday Palet...

Ulta Birthday Gift 2017: NYX Birthday Palette (with Swatches!)

All three Ulta's near me were out, but I finally managed to snag one! Introducing Ulta's 2017 Birthday Gift:  The NYX Birthday Palette! This palette is available for free on your birthday if you are an Ulta Ultimate Rewards Member.


Ulta Birthday Gift 2017
Third Quarter (July - September)
NYX Birthday Palette $18 Value

Vavavoom!

Every year, Ulta Ultimate Rewards Members stare feverishly at their inboxes waiting for something wonderful to arrive - their Free Birthday Gift coupon.  Once I received mine, I went straight to the nearest Ulta; only to be met with disappointment:  All three Ulta's in my immediate area were OUT!  What do you mean?  What is this?  What is happening?

They are fixing the problem, but I was lucky to be near a fourth Ulta one day which thankfully had my gift in stock, and what a gift it was!  The NYX Birthday Palette is fantastic.  At an $18 value, there are many colors to choose from.  I like how I can opt for a subtle look or choose to add a little more vavavoom to my life.  Some of the colors are highly pigmented - mostly the metallics.  The other ones, not so much.  However, it's FREE and it's mine!  I cracked open the case and took the photos below to share with y'all :).

Now here is what you were waiting for...


PHOTOS


I'm ready for my close-up.


SWATCHES


NYX Birthday Palette Swatch in Natural Light
NYX Birthday Palette Swatch in Indoor Light

Becoming an Ulta Rewards Member is easy and free.  I definitely recommend signing up.  You can sign up here!


I have naturally curly hair and a short fuse - not a good combination.  I don't have the patience to do my hair every morning so my styl...

Brazilian Keratin Treatment: Before and After

I have naturally curly hair and a short fuse - not a good combination.  I don't have the patience to do my hair every morning so my stylist recommended a Brazilian Keratin Treatment using the Brazilian Blowout brand to help my hair become more manageable.

Brazilian Keratin Treatment
Before and After

That lighting though.

WHAT DOES IT DO?


The Brazilian Keratin Treatment is a smoothing treatment that helps eliminate frizz.  It is not a relaxer.  Keratin is a type of protein containing a special amino acid (cystine) that is infused into your hair cuticles using heat resulting in strong yet movable hair.

I found this great visual explanation on keratincomplex.com:
https://www.keratincomplex.com/about/the-science/smoothing-therapy

BEFORE AND AFTER


Freshly air dried curls without and with the Brazilian Keratin Treatment (Brazilian Blowout brand)
Flat ironed hair without and with Brazilian Keratin Treatment (Brazilian Blowout brand)


PROS


  • It reduces frizz immensely
  • It washes out with a clarifying shampoo if you don't like it
  • It makes hair shiny and manageable
  • It reduces drying / straightening time significantly

I make it a point to do this treatment every summer.  I live in a very hot and humid climate and it really helps calm my curls.  You can see in the before and after pic above that my hair becomes more wavy than curly, but it's a nice sexy wave.  I like to just roll out of bed and go to work without worrying about my hair, and this allows for maximum laziness.


CONS


  • Some treatments contain formaldehyde
  • Will not last long if not maintained
  • Will cause hair to break and fall out if done too often (protein overload)
  • Smells bad when first applied
  • Cannot wet or tie back hair for 72 hours

I've had both Coppola Keratin Complex and Brazilian Blowout used in my hair and I believe they both contain formaldehyde.  These products formaldehyde levels do fall within OSHA's mandated requirements which means they produce formaldehyde at an allowable level if used properly according to manufacturer instruction... However, if that doesn't vibe with you there are other Keratin treatments that are formaldehyde free and are said to be just as effective.  There are many, many articles out there that can provide detailed explanations as to why formaldehyde is bad for you so I will leave that part out.  I think I will switch to the formaldehyde free formula next time and write another article to compare the two.

Some treatments require you to go three days without wetting or tying your hair back to give it time to cure.  If you tie it back, you can develop a kink in your hair that will last months.  If you do develop a kink or wet your hair during this time, iron it out immediately.  I usually keep my BaByliss PRO Nano Titanium Mini Straightening Iron nearby during this time.


MAINTENANCE


You do have to maintain it!  In addition to not going to the pool or beach all the time; the best way to get your new do to last is to not wash your hair with ultra hot water and to switch to a sulfate free shampoo.  Keep in mind that most "sulfate free" shampoos refer specifically to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).  While this harsh surfactant can remove your hair treatment, there are many other harsh surfactants to worry about; some of which do not even classify as a sulfate!

I can get my Brazilian Keratin Treatment to last about six months mostly by avoiding the following ingredients: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Ether Sulfate.  In a nut shell, I just avoid anything that even remotely sounds like Sulfate, Sulfonate, Sodium, etc.

What Shampoo / Conditioner do you use?
I use Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo and Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner.  The shampoo's list of ingredients is short and sweet:

Deionized Water, Decyl Glucoside (Coconut Oil), African Butyrospermum Parkii (shea Butter)*, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Argan Oil, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Rosemary Extract, Sea Kelp Extract, Vitamin E, Guar Gum, Lonicera Capifloium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Avocado Oil *Certified Organic Ingredients.

Notice that the ingredients do not have anything that from the list of things to avoid above?


JAPANESE HAIR STRAIGHTENING vs BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT


My colleague has been using Japanese Hair Straightening for over ten years.  Her natural hair is extremely curly and foofy (like Slash).  Maintaining the poof got old very quickly.  When I met her, I had no idea that her natural hair was so curly until she showed me a picture.  Her hair is dead straight now and I thought that it just grew out that way.  While her hair is much more manageable now that it's straight; it is also nearly unstyleable.  She has tried multiple products but her hair just cant hold any type of curl or wave without a ton of product.  While she has had pretty good results using Living Proof Perfect Hair Day 5-in-1 Styling Treatment; she was considering switching to the Brazilian Keratin Treatment for a little more styling freedom.  We came across the following issues during our research:

Brazilian Keratin Treatment has to be done on the whole head.  
Japanese Hair Straightening can be touched up at the roots every few months.  This is how she was able to maintain the same look for over ten years.  If she switched to the Brazilian Keratin Treatment, she would have to redo her entire head every time.  There are many problems with this.  One being that the cost of redoing the entire Brazilian Keratin Treatment is far more than the cost of a Japanese Hair Straightening touch up (her guy does very affordable touch ups).  The second major issue (also mentioned in the Cons) is that if the Brazilian Keratin Treatment is done too often, the hair will become brittle and begin to break.

Japanese Hair Straightening is permanent.
Once you get it done, there is no going back.  Your only options are to let it grow out or continue with the treatment.  If you choose to grow it out, you end up having a completely different hair type at the roots and it just looks odd.   I guess you can always just shave your head.  Meanwhile, Brazilian Keratin Treatment lasts a few months and can be washed out.


BRAZILIAN KERATIN TREATMENT PRICING


Make a list of stylists with a lot of experience doing this treatment and price them out.  I've found that the price varies greatly depending on the salon you go to, and price =/= quality.  I've had the treatment done at three different salons at different price points:  $250, $175, and $120.  The $250 salon took about two hours and had the worst results (hair looked nice but felt rough).  The $175 salon had the best results but took almost four hours (time is money).  The $120 salon had good results and took about an hour and a half, but didn't apply enough product on the back of my head so it's a bit more curly there.


FINAL THOUGHTS


I think Brazilian Keratin Treatments are wonderful if done correctly.  It really was a game changer for me.  The treatment needs to be done by someone with a lot of experience though.  The first time I got it done (using the Coppola brand), my hair was a mess.  It looked nice but felt rough to the touch until I was able to wash it.  I went to another stylist to get it done (using Brazilian Blowout brand) and the results looked the same, but my hair was very soft.  The second stylist told me that the first stylist most likely had the flat iron set too hot so it burned the product into my hair.  Not good.

I highly recommend this treatment to anyone with foofy or unmanageable hair.  Find a good stylist and ask them what is best for your hair type.  With a wide variety of options to choose from, they should certainly be able to find a formula that is right for you.




So I got sick of Googling comparison swatches for the Target Laneige Medium vs Laneige Pore Control Shade 31 and not finding anything; ...

COMPARISON SWATCH: Laneige Target Medium VS Laneige Pore Control # 31 VS Laneige Anti-Aging # 31

So I got sick of Googling comparison swatches for the Target Laneige Medium vs Laneige Pore Control Shade 31 and not finding anything; so I did what any other sane person would do:  Buy all of them and swatch them so you don't have to!  PLUS a bonus Laneige Anti-Aging Shade 31 Swatch just for fun!  

Laneige BB Cushion (U.S. Target Version) Shade Medium
VS Laneige Pore Control BB Cushion Shade 31
VS Laneige Anti-Aging BB Cushion Shade 31

My wallet.  It hurts.

INFO SHEET

Brand:  Laneige
Product:  BB Cushion (Target Edition)
Shade:  Medium
Coverage:  Light - Medium
Dewiness:  Very Dewy
Scent:  Strong, Floral Potpourri - Just like Grandma's house.
Oxidation:  Slight
Price:  $34.00
Availability:  Target in Select Stores and Online

The Run Down:  
P.S. I already reviewed this cushion in another post!

  • Great match for NC37
  • Potent Grandma scent for the first 1-2 hours of wear
  • VERY Dewy
  • Not good for Combination / Oily Skin



Brand:  Laneige
Product:  Pore-Control BB Cushion
Shade:  31
Coverage:  Light - Medium
Dewiness:  Slightly Dewy
Scent:  Fresh Floral with Notes of Grandma's House
Oxidation:  More than Slight
Price:  $50.00
Availability:  YesStyle.com

The Run Down:

  • Better match for NC30 - NC35
  • Scent lingers for the first 1 - 2 hours of wear.
  • Slightly Dewy
  • Better for Combination / Oily Skin



Brand:  Laneige
Product:  Anti-Aging BB Cushion
Shade:  31
Coverage:  Light - Medium
Dewiness:  Semi-Dewy
Scent:  Strong, Floral Potpourri - Just like Grandma's house.
Oxidation:  More than Slight
Price:  $50.00
Availability:  YesStyle.com

The Run Down:

  • Better match for NC35
  • Potent Grandma scent for the first 1-2 hours of wear
  • Dewy at first, but dries to Semi-Dewy
  • Better for Dry / Aging Skin



COMPARISON SWATCH

Laneige Target Medium does NOT match Laneige Shade # 31


I was surprised by a few things:  Target Laneige Medium does NOT match Laneige Pore Control / Anti-Aging cushions in Shade 31.  It is in fact a bit darker and slightly warmer.  I was also surprised that the Laneige Pore Control cushion is actually a little lighter than Laneige Anti-Aging cushion of the same shade.  I had always read that the Anti-Aging cushion was supposed lighter because it's meant to give you a brighter, youthful glow.  However, it is not lighter than the Pore Control cushion.

Ironically enough, the IOPE Air Cushion XP in Shade 31 is a lot closer in shade to Target Laneige Medium, but the IOPE Air Cushion XP in 31 is a little more pink.  It is kind of annoying that the 31 shades can vary so greatly for companies which are all under the Amore Pacific umbrella.  I am really hoping that the Sulwhasoo Perfecting Cushion Brightening in shade 33 is closer to IOPE's shade 31...  At any rate, I have swatched all of the cushions I own:  See cushion swatch comparison list below!

I think the best match for NC37 out of the three Laneige Cushions is the Target Laneige Medium BB Cushion.  It has a nice, neutral and slightly warm tone which blends easily.  It also does not seem to oxidize much at all.  Another thing that I like about it is that it is readily available for purchase in the U.S.  However, as per my previous review; it is simply too dewy to be used on combination / oily skin.  This was the biggest caveat for me.  If it wasn't so dewy I would continue to purchase it and even put up with the scent.  In the end, I wish they would just make a semi-dewy or semi-matte version of the Target Laneige BB Cushion (pretty please?).

The Laneige Pore Control BB Cushion in Shade 31 is an okay fit for NC37, especially after oxidation.  It does not oxidize a lot but the color does neutralize enough so that it is not as bright as when first applied.  I feel that it may be a better match for someone who is NC30 - NC35.  NC37's can wear it if blended and used for lighter coverage, but not good for higher coverage applications.

And finally, this brings us to the Laneige Anti-Aging BB Cushion in Shade 31.  It is is in the same boat as the Pore Control as it is a bit lighter than the Target Laneige Medium.  If you look closely though, you will notice that it is a little darker and just a hair more pink than the Pore Control, and it may be better suited for NC35.  The color is an okay fit for NC37 looking for lighter coverage.  It is okay for use on combination skin (but not oily).  You may still need to blot your t-zone though.

A note on the Laneige cushion cases:  Laneige Pore Control and Anti-Aging cushion refills do fit into each other's cases.  These cases are also a little more compact when compared to the Target Laneige cushion case; which is larger and bulkier.  Since the Laneige Target version is larger, the refills do not fit into the Pore Control / Anti-Aging cases (vice versa).


FINAL THOUGHTS

I will continue to purchase the Laneige Pore Control BB Cushion in shade 31 as long as YesStyle continues to stock it.  I would even opt for the Anti-Aging cushion of the same shade if for some reason the Pore Control is unavailable.  It is very difficult to find cushions in these shades online.  Even now YesStyle is out of stock on all shade 31 Laneige Cushions.  So if that is the case... the search continues.


SWATCH COMPARISON LIST

For reference and for science!


Master Swatch List

In Chizu Saeki's book The Japanese Skincare Revolution , she states that excessive skincare damages the skin.  She goes on to recommend ...

The Skincare Diet and the Art of Listening to Your Skin

In Chizu Saeki's book The Japanese Skincare Revolution, she states that excessive skincare damages the skin.  She goes on to recommend "skin fasting" which basically means do not do anything for one day out of the week.  Don't wear makeup, do not put absolutely anything on your skin save for rinsing it with water.

The Skincare Diet and the Art of Listening to Your Skin

Left:  Damaged skin with Acne, Right:  A year and a half later.

This scared me.

But she has a great point.  I had been struggling with painful, itchy acne and bumpy skin for a long time and while my routine had good products in it; I was still breaking out.  So I thought it was time to go on a diet, a Skincare Diet.

I was going to follow Saeki's advice but I still wanted to wash my face because my skin is oily.  I decided that I was going to slim down my routine and only use my trusted Cerave Foaming Cleanser and Benton Snail Bee Steam Cream.  Cerave Foaming Cleanser is a gentle, low PH cleanser that doesn't strip your skin.  If your cleanser leaves your skin feeling tight then that is not good!  That means your skin was stripped of it's natural oils and barrier.  Benton Snail Bee Stream Cream is moisturizing, mild and soothing for me.  I figured if I was still breaking out then one of these products may be the culprit.  Luckily for me, they weren't.

After two weeks of dieting, my skin no longer itched and was no longer in pain.  I still had acne but I realized that I was doing something right.  This is how I learned to listen to my skin.

All along, my skin was telling me something was wrong!  It was clearly upset and I wasn't listening.  I was putting stuff on my skin that it did not like but I thought would help.  So over the next few weeks, I was determined to find out what that was.  I decided that the next item to try from my original routine would be Tarte Maracuja Oil.  I put two drops on my skin once every three days, and that's when the itchiness returned.  Cross that off the list.  I tried it and my skin said "Nope, try again." This sucked because I had just purchased a very large, expensive and most luxurious bottle of this stuff; which Ulta so graciously let me return.  You guys, the bottle was so beautiful and encrusted with gems (holiday edition).  I really didn't want to give it up, but my skin told me that I must let it go.

Through this process, my skin also told me that it does not like Glycolic acid.  Even in very small doses, it ranted in the form of acne and pain.  I had always patch tested before but I did not understand the subtleties of what my skin was telling me until it was too late.  In the end I thought I was purging, but purging shouldn't be itchy and inflamed!  This time, I listened.

Now when I want to try a new product, I have a process that I follow.  For example, I wanted to stop using Paula's Choice BHA Liquid because I did not see any results from using it for a few months.  I decided that I wanted to replace it with COSRX BHA Blackhead Power liquid.

I patch tested in two areas:  1) My Chin - Where I do not break out, and 2)  My Right Cheek - Where I break out quite easily.  My skin's response:  Two very large zits on my right cheek (these are now the two spots on my cheek you see pictured above).  It was angry, but the flare up occurred in a location where I would normally break out.  I deduced that the product was working as intended by bringing a would-be zit to head, but I needed to scale it back.  I now apply only 3 - 4 drops once a week on damp skin as I originally tried it on dry.  Since then, I haven't gotten any zits and even the occasional hormonal acne I would normally get also ceased.

Another example is that I wanted to try out Kikumasamune High Moist Lotion with the intention of using it for Chizu Saeki's Lotion Mask technique.  I used the same testing process as above.  My skin's response:  a few very tiny whiteheads on my cheek that rubbed away when I washed my face.  I translated this as "This is okay, but I need time to get used to it."  I now use it for the Lotion Mask technique, but only a few drops once a week.  In the lotion mask technique, you wet the cotton square on the back of your hand with distilled water and press out the excess water.  You then apply the hydrating toner of your choice, separate the cotton, and place on your face for three minutes as a sort of make shift sheet mask.  Since my skin told me it needed time, I only did this once a week with maybe eight drops of Kikumasamune (which is diluted in the wet cotton) and slowly increasing the dosage over a few weeks. Now my skin does not react with the little white heads, and I get to experience the joy of soft hydration that Kikumasamune High Moist Lotion and sheet masking can provide.  I don't sheet mask at all otherwise, because you can't patch test a sheet mask :(.

One thing to remember is that everyone is different.  What works for others may not work for you.  I thought Tarte Maracuja Oil was probably the most gentle thing I could use, but my skin did not like it.  Just like our food, some people can eat oranges and some people can't (I can't - acid sensitivity) even though oranges are good for you!

So there you have it.  The trick is to listen, wait, and be patient.  Don't haul and shock your skin with a bunch of random stuff.  Imagine how your stomach would react by dramatically changing your diet suddenly?  Your skin is no different.  Give it time and be gentle.

This weekend I tried the Laneige BB Cushion (Target Version) in Shade Medium .  I was feeling hopeful that this shade would be a good ...

Swatch: Laneige BB Cushion (Target Edition) Shade Medium

This weekend I tried the Laneige BB Cushion (Target Version) in Shade Medium.  I was feeling hopeful that this shade would be a good match for NC37, knowing that Light-Medium would be too light and Medium-Dark would be too dark.  Oh, the joys of being in between shades.

Laneige BB Cushion (U.S. Target Version)
Shade Medium

Laneige BB Cushion (U.S. Target Version) in Shade Medium


INFO SHEET


Brand:  Laneige
Product:  BB Cushion (Target Edition)
Shade:  Medium
Coverage:  Light - Medium
Dewiness:  Very Dewy
Scent:  Strong, Like Grandma
Oxidation:  A little
Price:  $34.00
Availability:  Target in Select Stores and Online

This cushion comes in the standard cushion packaging that you see everywhere.  It uses the old bulky Laneige case and not the newer more streamlined version - so I don't believe the refills from Korea will fit into this case.


SWATCH

Laneige BB Cushion in Medium Swatch (U.S. Target Version)


BEFORE AND AFTER

Laneige BB Cushion in Medium (U.S. Target Version)

I felt that the Laneige BB Cushion in Medium (U.S. Target Version) was a good match for NC37.  It is not exact because it is slightly lighter, but it does oxidize a little bit.  It is definitely a much better match than the Etude House Real Powder Cushion in No. W24 Honey Beige.  I showed the arm swatch to my BF and asked him if he thought it matched, and he couldn't see it right away (it was a big swatch too).  I had to point it out to him.

I was pretty happy to find a matching cushion but I was sorely disappointed with how dewy it was.  It did not feel nice on my skin at all.  I also did not use a setting powder for testing purposes but I honestly rather continue my search than try to work with a dewy cushion.

The Laneige BB Cushion in Medium does have pretty decent coverage.  You can see in the photo above that I had a pimple on my cheek and it did a good job covering the irritation from it.

 I wore the Laneige BB Cushion in Medium for the entire day and found that I had to blot more often than normal.  I definitely feel that this cushion is better suited for dry skin folk who don't mind the dewy look.  It also settled into my pores in a bad way, but did not pill in my oily areas like the Etude House Real Powder Cushion did.


FINAL THOUGHTS


I will not buy this cushion.  While the shade matches, it is just too dewy.  It also smells like grandma!  Scented products don't usually bother me but it had a pretty potent grandma smell for the first two hours of wear.  It's like they gathered a bunch of grandmas and studied them because the scent was on point.  I was worried that I smelled like grandma too :(.

I am going to try the Laneige Pore Control BB Cushion in Shade # 31 because I HEARD that it is the same shade as Target Medium (this is not true - see this post), but I am not sure.  I know it is catered more to oily skin so that piques my interest.

So if you are around NC35 - NC37 with dry skin, and want to feel nostalgic about grandma, then I would give this cushion a try.  You can find a little sample set on ebay for like $5 if you are not sure.

Rating


SWATCH COMPARISON LIST

For reference and for science!



Master Swatch List

The  Jamsu Diving Method  is taking  r/AsianBeauty  by storm!  Well maybe for like... a week.  But what is the  Jamsu Diving Method , a...

Review: 3 - 2 - 1 - Let's Jamsu!

The Jamsu Diving Method is taking r/AsianBeauty by storm!  Well maybe for like... a week.  But what is the Jamsu Diving Method, anyway?  Well, you've probably heard of "baking" which is a popular way of setting makeup by letting translucent powder sit on your face for 10 minutes and then dusting it off.  The Jamsu Diving Method is for setting makeup, but from a different approach...

The Jamsu Diving Method

 (For illustration purposes only, because it is a cool picture.)

A fellow redditor stumbled upon this Vogue article (Kim, Monica. "The Wonderfully Weird Makeup Trick That’s Sweeping Korea." Vogue. Aug. 2016) where you essentially set your makeup by dousing your face with loose powder, plunging it into cool water for 30 seconds and then patting dry.  It seems to be hit or miss on the forums, so I decided to see how it fares with my combo / oily skin.

Many redditors used the alternate method cited in the article by liberally spraying their face with cool water rather than diving.  I chose to try this method because my hair is naturally curly, and I can't deal with the poof - not even for science.

Not nearly as cool.

TAKING THE PLUNGE

First and foremost, here is what I wore:

  • Skin Food Salmon Dark Circle Concealer Cream # 2
  • IOPE Air Cushion XP Shade N31
  • Marc Jacobs Highliner Gel Eye Crayon Eyeliner in Black
  • Urban Decay Eyeshadow Twice Baked
  • Urban Decay Midnight Cowboy
  • Anastasia Beverly Hills DIPBROW Pomade in Chocolate
  • Benefit Roller Lash Curling & Lifting Mascara (applied after Jamsu)

I purposely chose a the dewiest cushion that I had because I wanted to see if this method could make a dewy cushion matte.  However, the IOPE Air Cushion XP is more Semi-Dewy than full on shiny.  When applying the Jamsu Diving Method, I used my tarte Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Setting Powder - which normally doesn't work too well for me after a few hours so I figured I would get a better use out of it using this method.  The Vogue article states that you can use baby powder or any loose powder, but please note that the talc used in baby powder can be extremely dangerous if inhaled.  I would not recommend using baby powder at all.  Please do your research and take precaution!!!


HOW TO APPLY

Step 1:  Apply Makeup
Step 2:  Apply enough powder to create a white cast.
Step 3:  Scare your family (required)
Step 4:  Spray face with cool water until dripping wet
Step 5:  Pat dry


BEFORE AND AFTER

Stage makeup brows locked and loaded.

RESULTS

I really had no expectations for this... but it actually worked.  After application, my skin was matte, even, and felt baby smooth.  I went on to do my normal weekend activities such as cleaning and drilling choreography.  It was pretty hot so I had sweat quite a bit...   so imagine my surprise when I looked in the mirror after all of that and saw that I still looked pretty much the same.  I wasn't a hot mess or an oil slick.

The thing is, Jamsu made the area around my mouth uncomfortably dry.  So I decided to try it again under more extreme conditions, but this time I focused on my t-zone and did a light dust everywhere else.  Then I went to a theme park.  It was hot, sweaty, and I got rained on.  Now for the moment of truth...

Look ma!  I'm not a greasy mess!

So there you have it.  You can see I look more satin-ey than oily after 12 HOURS!  DUDE!!!


Yeah!  Take that, Oily Skin!

FINAL THOUGHTS

I was very impressed about how well the Jamsu Diving Method worked.  My skin looked and felt smooth and actually softer than usual throughout the day.  My oily t-zone seemed like it wanted to be oily, but was being absorbed by the set powder.  It left an effect that left my skin looking not quite dry, but not shiny either.

It is not all peaches and cream though.  I do have some concerns:  My Biore Watery Essence Sunscreen is not waterproof.  Which means that spraying your face with water or "diving" into a bowl of water will rinse off or weaken the sunblock's effect.  Therefore, I do not think it is a good idea to use the Jamsu Diving Method during the day if your sunblock is not waterproof.  There are many waterproof sunblocks available.  I heard the Missha All Around Safe Block has a waterproof version that was nice, but have never tried it myself.

I also think that if you have dry skin, Jamsu may be uncomfortable for you.  My face is a kind of dry around my mouth, and when I initially tried this method it left the skin around my mouth very VERY dry.  To the point where it was not only uncomfortable, but painful enough to want to wash it off.  I can only imagine what that feels like on your whole face!

In the end, I am going to only use the Jamsu Diving Method for special occasions in the evening.  I am also only going to mostly use it on my t-zone like I did above in the 12 Hour Test.  This should address my concerns about non-waterproof sunblock and dryness around my mouth.

I have to say that the Jamsu Diving Method is definitely more effective than using just setting powder or any other primer that I have tried.  It helps your makeup stay put and last longer.  If you have translucent powder lying around, and a sprayer bottle or large bowl:  Give it a try!


Until next time...

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